The Cartier Santos Dual Time, launched on September 1, 2024, has quickly become a highly sought-after timepiece, demonstrating Cartier’s continued relevance and appeal in the luxury watch market.1 Its introduction at Watches & Wonders 2024 generated significant buzz, not least because of its unique technical and aesthetic choices for the iconic Santos line.
What Makes the Watch Unique?
A notable distinction of the Santos Dual Time is its movement. Unlike many of Cartier’s recent models that feature in-house calibers like the 1847 MC, this edition uses a customized version of the Sellita SW330.2 This choice offers a practical advantage: a longer power reserve of 48 hours, surpassing the 1847 MC’s 42 hours, which is particularly beneficial for travellers or those who don’t wear their watch daily. While some purists might prefer a fully in-house movement, the Sellita SW330 is known for its proven reliability and ease of servicing.
In terms of dimensions, the Santos Dual Time has a case width of 40.2mm, a thickness of 10.1mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 47.5mm.3 These measurements contribute to a bold yet balanced wrist presence, appealing to individuals who prefer a more substantial feel in their watches without being overly cumbersome.
Complications
The integration of a dual time complication is a first for the Santos model. To accommodate this new functionality, Cartier thoughtfully reconfigured the dial. The hour window was shifted to the 3 o’clock position to make space for the dual-time sub-dial.4 This repositioning ensures legibility while maintaining the characteristic elegance of the Santos line. The dual-time feature is designed for quick and intuitive adjustments, making it a highly practical tool for frequent travellers or those managing schedules across different time zones.5
Color
A striking aesthetic feature is the watch’s monochromatic palette. The all-grey dial, with its varying hues and textures, offers both style and legibility. Cartier has employed a sleek silver shade for the Roman numerals, which harmonizes beautifully with the darker grey of the bezel.6 The minute railroad track, or “Chemin de Fer,” a hallmark of Cartier design, is presented in a lighter grey, accented with subtle grey lume at each hour marker, contributing to its timeless appeal.7 This sophisticated, understated design appeals to collectors who value elegance over overt extravagance, with the dual-time sub-dial and date window seamlessly integrated into the overall grey scheme.
Retail and Secondary Market Predictions
The Cartier Santos Dual Time is priced at $9,150 (approximately £8,800 in the UK).8 This pricing reflects Cartier’s brand prestige, the inclusion of a specialized movement for the dual time complication, and the meticulous craftsmanship. It is positioned as a premium offering within the Santos collection, appealing to collectors seeking a unique addition without venturing into the ultra-high-end segment.
Given the initial excitement and its novelty within the Santos line, the Cartier Santos Dual Time is anticipated to perform well on the secondary market. Factors such as production numbers and ongoing demand will influence its value, but it would not be surprising to see it command premiums above retail in the coming months as collectors who missed the initial launch seek to acquire this distinctive piece.